“We need a new outline” Raf stressed before his SS19 show. Bored of printed hoodies, he had set out to bring back haute-couture and tailoring on the runway – unforgetting of his strong underground youth influences. Flawlessly cut satin Duchesse coats and trousers were sent down the catwalk, boldly asserting his couture mastery.

Inspired by Yves Saint Laurent’s daring color combinations, he tells the story of the moment Punk birthed New Wave: the generously proportioned suits, drenched in vivid ice blue, fuchsia, marigold and emerald hues, reference 70s and 80s New Wave – even bringing neon flashbacks of early Stephen Sprouse.

Underplaying the expected punk visual cues, Simons instead spikes the collection with London club scene prints, featuring safety pins and chains, while studs ornate the massive coats, along with a dash of fetish, brought to life by versatile silver d-rings spread throughout the garments.