Fall 17/18 Sacai
Sacai was established by Chitose Abe in 1999 after 8 years of working with the Junya Watanabe collection at Comme des Garçons. Her collections may appear to be about femininity, but Abe’s interest is in creating clothes that are entirely unique and timeless, innovative and experimental. Juxtapositions of contrasting textures of fabrics such as knits with super fine wovens and usage of techniques based on reinterpretations of patterns of the garment transform the pieces into unexpected shapes and silhouettes.
This women season Chitose Abe cut a jean jacket lined with fur and twisted denim into a long, swirling skirt spliced with silk or lace. Utility parkas in delicate multicolor floral lace. Tweed jackets in a sporty look and with puffers. Layered colorful nylon jackets under a dress coat or cape.
The Fall 2017 menswear collection Chitose Abe called the Cut Ups. Her various arrangements of fabric, color, and garment archetypes of streetwear had a calmly organized vibe, and an almost serendipitous prettiness about them. The difference Abe spoke about, through her interpreter, was that she’d changed her habit of making pieces from contrasting fronts and backs. The the mellow color palette gives it all a gentle, easy, utilitarianism, which chimed with the way things are going.