MARINE SERRE SS18 CORNERSTONES

For those who don't know, the young designer was awarded the LVMH prize in 2017 for her very first collection called "Radical Call for Love", while still working her day job in the Balenciaga atelier. Her now-famous crescent moon design, redolent of the Turkish and old Soviet flags, is an allusion to migration, national identity, and a rapidly transforming Europe.

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Marine's hybrid and thickly-referenced approach absorbes and combines codes from radically different worlds while still choosing to ignore the boundaries between ready-to-wear, couture, tailoring and sportswear. The collection builds on the tension between conceptual design and the sense of practicality: the crescent leitmotif, for instance, turns up on athletic stretch bodies and leggings, worn with red moiré “denim” jackets and high-waisted jeans.

Developing a new-functionalist “FutureWear”, as her crew calls it, upcycled used garments are revived into fresh pieces, utilitarian staples are tweaked and refined, while the pared-down suppleness of athleticwear still pervades her hybrid designs.